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Vote for Setup 8255    New Setup for TVR V8S      
Setup ID
Tuner
Make
Car
Model Year
Track
Votes
Views
Horsepower
Best Lap
Date Entered
Last Modified
8255
1991
Road Setup
0
2532
276
7:57.999
03/24/2010 3:02 AM
04/04/2010 7:58 AM  
Muffler Sports Suspension Semi-Racing
Racing Chip Normal Transmission Standard
NA Tune Stage 1 Clutch Standard
Front Tires S2 - Medium Flywheel Sports
Rear Tires S2 - Medium Carbon Driveshaft None
Nitrous None GT Auto - Wing None
Turbine Kit None Limited Slip Standard
Intercooler None AYC None
Supercharger None VCD None
Brakes Normal Weight Reduction None
Brake Controller None Increase Rigidity None
Setup Item Front Rear Setup Item Front Rear
Spring Rate 5.8 4.5 Stabilizers
Ride Height 127 127 Brake Balance
Shock Absorbers 3 3 Downforce
Shock Bound LSD Init. Torque
Shock Rebound LSD Acceleration
Camber Angle 1.6 0.8 LSD Deceleration
Toe Angle Nitrous
1st 2nd 3rd 4th 5th 6th Final Auto Set
 
ASM
Oversteer
ASM
Understeer
TCS Ballast
Balance
Ballast
Weight
AYC VCD
0 0 0 0 0
TVR V8S - Modified Sports Tune (Re-posted)

-Runs as 276hp with a power to weight ratio better than my Ford Mustang GT Tune
-Tuned at Nurburgring
-Weighs in about 1150kg (est.)
-Top Speed is around 260-270kph or I think maybe 155 or 165mph
-Around $35000 to $40000 all up for car and parts

This setup for the V8S is the now fully functioning revised version replacing the older version as refered to in the posts.

I always felt that the normal V8S was lacking compared to other sports cars simalar to it. As such, I've designed the setup in mind to create what the V8S should of been. The engine has been amped up for more power and a sports muffler has been added, to produce the much needed V8 rumble that was once non-existant in the original car. Even if you at a complete stop the V8S is wonderful to just listen to. The suspension has also been uprated to a adjustable semi-racing fitting, offering a more sportier drive but still keeping it's soft nature.

Overall this setup package creates a much more delievering drive from the original. I must thank Stigs and MarkusXO for their feedback from the old setup. The added camber has made the car more stable and better to corner without ruining the looks of the car.
Please post back your thoughts, I would appreciate it.
Brette

PSN: StigsTC
Joined: 01/20/2009
Last on: 08/29/2016
Setups: 67
Posts: 1192
Posted 03/24/2010 3:31 AM Post a reply Quote this post View StigsTibecuadorianco's info
Ok, its to do with either the car pitching too far forward causing the vibration, or not enough and the suspension resisting the weight transfer and causing the vibration. Normally its because the suspension is too stiff, but with rates like 5.x or 6.x it may be not stiff enough... Have a play with that to find out...
StigsTC
My full schedule B-spec guide and setups to the FGT (GT4)

100% all gold in GT4, GT5 and GT6. At last.

PSN:
Joined: 09/04/2008
Last on: 01/21/2018
Setups: 183
Posts: 576
Posted 03/24/2010 5:23 PM Post a reply Quote this post View MarkusXO's info
I actually still get vibration when the car's slide slows and it starts to get traction.. but .. This is what I did.. running lows 8's on the N..

One big difference is that I had a Stage 3 Weight Reduction and came in at 950 kg.. added 200 on Ballast to the tune..Came in 290 HP without Sports Exhaust.. was a full mod car.. has engine balancing--- ( The full mod gives non of the shake..) Sports Suspension with a 3,2 and 2.0,1.0 camber left not shake..

SA: 3,2 think that 6,5 would be better but thats what I have on a the normal full mod..
C: 2.0, 1.0.. Fairly typical.. but it seems to aid in the shake that you get when hard in a turn.. still get this on embankments at fastest possible speed..

Could not get rear number stopped at 4.7.. but I think that the only way to work this completely out would be to move to racing suspension, keep default spring numbers and work stability in sway bars and Shock Absorbers.. with a little better tweaked Camber..

Pushing the car as hard as I could .. The only places I got a trimble.. were when sliding to a stop.. and starting gradually get traction.. embankments..and when running over curbs at high speed..( but that could have been something else.. ) Other than that I had a relativley easy run.. without an issue..

PSN: Cuddles-X
Joined: 01/17/2009
Last on: 02/21/2014
Setups: 43
Posts: 538
Thanks for pitching in ideas guys
Posted 03/24/2010 7:44 PM Post a reply Quote this post View Brette's info
Well I know for a fact that this suspension doesn't have enough support for this car but the racing suspension I think is unnessary for this car as its just a waste of money to me. I haven't tried using the weight settings yet so I'll be having a go with that this weekend.

So MarkusXO if I add more camber it'll be better for most of turns?
(If this car can get rid of this little niggle, it'll be so cool to drive)
My Cars:
- 1985 Nissan Gazelle S12 (Drift Pig),
- 1987 Nissan Be-1 w/canvas roof, and a parts car

PSN:
Joined: 09/04/2008
Last on: 01/21/2018
Setups: 183
Posts: 576
Updated 03/25/2010 4:55 AM Post a reply Quote this post View MarkusXO's info
I dunno.. what I feel is the balance here.. is that the dampers are too soft for the reactions of the weight of the car, the tires; on the track.. The added camber gives the car a smoother slide.. a little more slip than grip.. which keeps the suspension from binding down.. and the force generated is thrown elsewhere.. So this would effect your driving style as well..

The ONLY reason I threw on weight was to find the wobbling.. because I had a full mod car.. 500 HP, the whole package.. I had to go buy parts to downgrade.. Without changing anything I ran the Family Cup on 10.. pitted on the first lap and passed hem a second time and still won.. LOL.. and I have no bad boogie in mah carhh... :lmao: :P Then when I did your setup exact.. with Sport suspension.. still nothin, until I really leaned on it and it was minimal.. Then I went with Semi-Racing..and exact numbers and found it a little more..

But we are looking at another animal all together there..

SO I had more HP.. and less weight.. so I threw on 200 or full ballast with no shift.. the 3,2 and camber change gave the front a little more slip..in the turns in some cases but if you brake early you an be full on accel through the turns.. because of the balance in the car.. I thought it worked.. and it seemed to minimize the shake/wobble/effect of having the soft suspension.. which actually is great for the Sports Tires.. so really I only think it is actually a balance of what you want out of the car...

I found it at its worst when I got up to almost top speed on the back straight.. and threw on the brakes.. then the Handbrake.. and slid straight to a stop.. car felt like it was going to fall apart.. but you could see the difference in the level of the hood.. it dropped probably another 4-5 inches when it started.. and you could tell the car was catching grip to slow down.. but nothing in the slide..

PSN: Cuddles-X
Joined: 01/17/2009
Last on: 02/21/2014
Setups: 43
Posts: 538
Updated 04/04/2010 8:20 AM Post a reply Quote this post View Brette's info
Alright with some more testing of the V8S, I've worked out as much of the trembling as possible from this suspension. Raising the ride height helped but since the car is higher I needed to put on more camber to help with the cornering issue.

Even though the car is higher it drives basically as good as before, with the exception that it doesn't have that terrible tremble anymore. It's much nicer to drive now. Have fun!


If you really want to know what the original numbers of suspension was, I'll post em heeeere:

SpR: 5.8, 4.5
RH: 123, 123
Dmp: 1,1
Cmb: 1.4, 0.5
My Cars:
- 1985 Nissan Gazelle S12 (Drift Pig),
- 1987 Nissan Be-1 w/canvas roof, and a parts car
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