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Vote for Setup 5287    New Setup for Mazda 787B      
Setup ID
Tuner
Make
Car
Model Year
Track
Votes
Views
Horsepower
Best Lap
Date Entered
Last Modified
5287
1991
Mid-Field Raceway
0
2209
711
1:01.175
05/10/2006 2:56 AM
05/10/2006 3:54 AM  
Muffler Racing Suspension Full Customize
Racing Chip Normal Transmission Full Customize
NA Tune None Clutch Triple Plate
Front Tires T5 - Medium Flywheel Normal
Rear Tires T5 - Medium Carbon Driveshaft None
Nitrous N/A GT Auto - Wing N/A
Turbine Kit None Limited Slip Full Customize
Intercooler None AYC None
Supercharger N/A VCD None
Brakes Normal Weight Reduction None
Brake Controller Equipped Increase Rigidity N/A
Setup Item Front Rear Setup Item Front Rear
Spring Rate 13.8 14.8 Stabilizer 5 4
Ride Height 65 75 Brake Balance 8 18
Shock Absorbers Downforce 1.00 1.25
Shock Bound 3 4 LSD Init. Torque 10
Shock Rebound 6 8 LSD Acceleration 40
Camber Angle 2.0 1.0 LSD Deceleration 20
Toe Angle 0.0 0.0
1st 2nd 3rd 4th 5th 6th Final Auto Set
3.690 2.308 1.601 1.180 0.923 3.800 36
ASM TCS AYC VCD
10 5
this is the setup i have come up with so far with the mazda 787B i won for winning the test track race (which i won with a modified 1998 toyota gt-one with 1300 HP!! haha) .. i have not purchased any modifications for the car .. only tires ..

i am a pretty serious grand prix 3/4 player on the computer but ive been taking a break from it and a couple weeks ago i found this game sitting around and started messing around and GOT HOOKED ..

but anyway i took the car to midfield (a great track for testing .. although maybe a bit more suited to drifting in a gt car than the precision of a group c car .. anyways .. i sought out and turned off any driver aid type stuff i found in options (except for the steering assist which you cant turn off..so i set it to simulation) .. i was just trying to get a good baseline and shake the car down on medium compound tires .. but of course i ended up doing 100 laps and doing all kinds of setup stuff ..

i like a generally soft car with lots of wing that tends towards oversteer .. now, since i was going to run the car so low, i knew i needed the springs to be relatively stiff, but obviously i wanted the front a bit softer .. so i was afraid to make the front ride height too low as i didnt want the car bottoming out and rubbing on the bodywork, so i left it at 65 (i might be able to go lower, but i havent tried yet) ..

on the computer (with wheel and pedals) i am a deep left foor braker and on corner entry i am always simultaneously braking and throttling while i turn in .. and so on the console here with the hand held controller i need the braking to be predominantly done with the rear wheels so that the car pitches a little bit when i turn-in .. but since all the weight of braking will be at the back, i needed to leave the ratio of spring stiffness to ride height a little greater in the rear than in the front, thus the surprisingly high ride height for the rear ..

additionally, i basically read the little tip in the game when adjusting the shock bound/rebound (i have only ever seen just a slidebar for 'damper' in other games so i didnt really understand this stuff right away) which says that the rebound should be set at 2-4 times the bound .. so i did this, while making the front a little softer as usual .. originally i had the anti-roll bar in the front at 3 and rear at 4 but the car ended up being sloppy as hell so i stiffened it up a little in the front, which didnt take away any grip, yet made the car more stable .. i must say that this car and several other racing cars on this game are exceptionally sensitive to anti-roll bar adjustments .. perhaps a bit unrealistic ..

i didnt touch the ASM or TCS since i had never seen that stuff before and dont really understand it .. but yea this is basically the setup i have come up with so far .. im also running max wing right now, and once i feel like i am coming close to maximizing mechanical grip i might start trimming the car out a bit ..

it is definitely a work in progress, but i just wanted to post it on here and get some feedback from people who are experienced with this game and this car ..

i think it is truly amazing to be able to drive such a good simulation of a legendary car like the 787 .. to this day it holds the fastest lap ever at le mans .. it was just about quick enough to have competed in formula 1 in 1991 .. actually i would really like to see more old group c cars on this game .. anyways ..

i must say that being such an experienced computer sim driver i was EXTREMELY skeptical of this game's feasability as a real simulation, given that it is merely a console game and marketed towards the masses .. but i have been in for a massive surprise as this game is in fact the most meticulously programmed motor racing simulation i have ever seen and the car setup is more sophisticated and challenging than any computer sim around .. i just might have to buy a wheel and pedals for the ps2 and buy the new version of this game and have a go ..

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Joined: 05/05/2005
Last on: 12/23/2016
Setups: 61
Posts: 370
Updated 05/19/2006 5:46 PM Post a reply Quote this post View aspen's info
Not a bad set, I would strongly suggest taking the asm to zero always, tcs only needs a few ticks, say 2 or 3. That alone should shave a good 2 seconds off your time. Just found gt3 huh?, you won't be disapointed in the gt4 investment as it is a more realastic sim.

peace

PSN: gtvault-com
Joined: 08/27/2001
Last on: 10/20/2017
Setups: 11
Posts: 1368
Posted 05/19/2006 7:17 PM Post a reply Quote this post View Kerr's info
Welcome go GTVault, senninha. It's always nice to see PC gamers realize the depth of tuning in the GT game series. At the risk of dating myself, I've been a rabid PC and console gamer since the late 1970's. I have played through so many games I can't even count them. There was a point in time when I didn't play much on the consoles (mid 1990's) as the PC games at the time were typically far ahead in terms of graphics and gameplay depth. Those were the days when we saw the advent of hardware 3D accelerators on the PC. Anyway, I credit the GT series with getting me back into console gaming.

I will second aspen on both of his points. ASM in GT seems to rob cars of their potential. A lot of people don't touch it, and it can become somewhat of a crutch if one spends too much time racing with it set at the default numbers. I know you're probably playing the crap out of GT3 right now, and it deserves some serious attention. However, ponying up the bills for GT4 and possibly a wheel is definitely worth it.

Good luck!
Owner - GTVault

PSN:
Joined: 09/15/2003
Last on: 05/09/2015
Setups: 91
Posts: 724
Posted 05/19/2006 11:55 PM Post a reply Quote this post View DTW's info
Welcome to the Vault and it is nice to see another person who likes to go into depth with a write up. Those members seem to be a dying breed or where just in short supply to start with? Anyway I second the comment about GT4, you wonít be disappointed so long as you can live with a heavily Japanese slanted pallet and you are ok with a game dedicated to the history of cars and less a racing sim than GT3. There are more tracks so donít get disappointed by reading this. You will need to make up your mind on your own.

Now about ASM and TCS; I donít know how to equate ASM to real life cars.

There are restrictions built into cars (mostly software) that do something similar but there is no ASM precisely as the GT serious works it. As best I can figure ASM takes power away from the outside wheels on a turn and takes even more power away from the inside wheels. This is supposed to help the car have a more neutral feel when turning. It does this but only because it is slowing you down. In GT4 the problem is aggravated even more since you can now dial in ASM for over or under steer independently. Turn ASM off and you will get a more natural feel from the car and better feedback from the track and your setup.

TCS is just as it is in cars today; if you own a car I can almost assure you have TCS unless it is a vintage car. Some cars give you the option to turn TCS off so read your owners manual and it will explain this portion. Anyway TCS in the GT series works by taking power off of the tire that is slipping even if it is both tires. Most people consider this very bad but it is really a matter of personal choice. I use it since I donít care to nurse a car around a turn to prevent a spin out. TCS is most heavily used in standing starts and when powering out of a corner. I use it but generally turn it way down and will turn it off in 4WD sometimes. Why do you need TCS in a 4WD? Anyway this is personal choice and you will see some that hate it and others that use it; try it both ways and decide for yourself.

I know you will really come to love the Vault; Kerr has spent a great deal of time and effort (not to mention cash) to develop this site into a home for GT fans around the world.
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