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Vote for Setup 2563    New Setup for Toyota Sprinter Trueno GT-Apex S.S. version(J)      
Setup ID
Tuner
Make
Car
Model Year
Track
Votes
Views
Horsepower
Best Lap
Date Entered
Last Modified
2563
1985
0-400m
0
2086
387
0:11.905
03/19/2004 5:51 PM
03/25/2004 2:51 AM  
Muffler Racing Suspension Full Customize
Racing Chip Transmission Unknown
NA Tune None Clutch
Front Tires T8 - Super-soft Flywheel
Rear Tires T8 - Super-soft Carbon Driveshaft
Nitrous N/A GT Auto - Wing N/A
Turbine Kit Stage 3 Limited Slip Full Customize
Intercooler AYC
Supercharger N/A VCD
Brakes Weight Reduction
Brake Controller Equipped Increase Rigidity N/A
Setup Item Front Rear Setup Item Front Rear
Spring Rate 12.0 20.0 Stabilizer 3 4
Ride Height 127 86 Brake Balance 16 14
Shock Absorbers Downforce 0.24 0.47
Shock Bound 10 1 LSD Init. Torque 5
Shock Rebound 10 10 LSD Acceleration 5
Camber Angle 0.0 0.0 LSD Deceleration 5
Toe Angle 0.0 0.0
1st 2nd 3rd 4th 5th 6th Final Auto Set
2.973 2.245 1.716 1.349 1.096 0.917 3.350 30
ASM TCS AYC VCD
4 1
The only changes I have made are to the rear ride height (which now should be the minimum) and rear spring rate (now should be set to the maximum)

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Joined: 09/15/2003
Last on: 05/09/2015
Setups: 91
Posts: 724
Posted 03/19/2004 11:38 PM Post a reply Quote this post View DTW's info
Not feedback, just a question. Why did you post two setups for this car?

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Joined: 09/15/2003
Last on: 05/09/2015
Setups: 91
Posts: 724
ASM
Posted 03/21/2004 3:00 PM Post a reply Quote this post View DTW's info
ASM is Anti-Spin Mechanism; the only purpose it serves is (in brief) to balance the steering for new players to the game. After driving for awhile you will get used to the handling and feel of the game. At that point you will want to turn it off; once you do this you will notice a marked difference in your driving, the feel of the cars, and your times in races. As your setup is for the 0-400 track ASM will do nothing for you, it is only truly a factor in turns. Ignore the advice to put it at 1 and just turn it off (zero).

Adjusting the TCS will make a difference. Try setting the TCS to 0 (zero) and run the coarse, then do it again at 1, again at 2, etc until you find the best setting. Also your rear ride height should come up, unless you are adjusting for a FF drivetrain it is generally useful to set the rear a little higher than the front so that in acceleration the back will “sit down” and this in turn will help in keeping the center of mass of the car.

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Joined: 01/25/2003
Last on: 12/17/2006
Setups: 14
Posts: 74
Posted 03/22/2004 11:09 AM Post a reply Quote this post View 69YenkoCamaro's info
i tried this setup and i had my quickest runs with the ASM set to zero and the TCS set to two.
All Hail The Drunken Ninja Wasted! Ninja Master

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Joined: 09/15/2003
Last on: 05/09/2015
Setups: 91
Posts: 724
Updated 03/22/2004 11:18 AM Post a reply Quote this post View DTW's info
You are right 69YC, he is just acting like a baby because I blasted him and his idiot actions, anyone who has played this game for some time knows that the ASM is only useful in turns; otherwise it slows the car down. There are a few of the more wild cars that need it though.

Besides if that fool had actually read what I wrote he would see that I never said turn the TCS off.

PSN: gtvault-com
Joined: 08/27/2001
Last on: 10/20/2017
Setups: 11
Posts: 1368
Posted 03/22/2004 11:44 AM Post a reply Quote this post View Kerr's info
At any rate, it appears we now know who outback's 'daddy' is....
Owner - GTVault

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Joined: 09/15/2003
Last on: 05/09/2015
Setups: 91
Posts: 724
Posted 03/22/2004 12:03 PM Post a reply Quote this post View DTW's info
LOL, this had me rolling on the floor! I am still laughing!

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Joined: 11/21/2003
Last on: 07/21/2005
Setups: 2
Posts: 3
Posted 03/23/2004 11:04 PM Post a reply Quote this post View Trueno_SS's info
thanx 4 the feedbak guys i'll do my best 2 improve the car
a few points tho...
first up i always figured that if u had the back ride height lower than the front, the wight distribution would be even more bias towards the rear of the car, which will result in increased traction when u leave the start line. correct me if i'm wrong tho, i'm not sure on this.
another thing - as thankful as i am for ur feedbak, id prefer u guys not to us this as an oportunity to put down outbackH6tuner, id rather read somethin that wud help rather than ppl bein put down all the time

anyway once again thanx 4 all the feedbak guys!

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Joined: 09/15/2003
Last on: 05/09/2015
Setups: 91
Posts: 724
Posted 03/24/2004 12:26 AM Post a reply Quote this post View DTW's info
Yes Trueno_SS, you have a good point and I do apologize. It is not that I am defending my actions, this is your setup and it should not have devolved into a pissing contest. I did not start the fight, he did, and if you read other comments that he posted you will see that this was his general trend. Once again I apologize for my actions. Now to your question:

I know that Fumes can explain it better than me, I have a habit of being vague at best, but here it goes. If the ride height in back is low the (1) tail will bottom out on dips and hollows and cause a loss in control or worse a wipe out. (2) When the car accelerates the weight will shift to the back and with the height too low it could bear down to much slowing take off. (3) During normal driving and acceleration out of a turn the weight will shift to the back, in this case you want weight up front to help hold the steering tires in contact. If the car is an FR or MR it is best to set the back a little higher, if it is FF than set it a little lower.

Now this last part is just my opinion/observation: If the car is a 4WD and you want the VCD set to 40 or more percent up front than I (stress on I) feel that you should lower the back some, it works on the same principal as the FF. I still have testing to do on this so it could turn out that I am wrong. I hope that I have helped some and made up for my bad manners.

DTW

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Joined: 11/21/2003
Last on: 07/21/2005
Setups: 2
Posts: 3
Posted 03/24/2004 1:40 AM Post a reply Quote this post View Trueno_SS's info
hey thanx 4 the apology - but i dont think it was you who needed 2 apologize
i took the liberty 2 read a few of outbaks comments and can see where ur comin from now, i dont blame u at all, and i can see the trend u were talkin about

anyway i havnt got around 2 makin any adjustments 2 the set up as yet, ive been a bit short of time. ur explanation of the ride height makes perfect sense, but i dont see why u wud need the extra weight on the front wheels to provide better traction while turning when the cars running a 400m sprint in a straight line, or am i just misreading what u've said? but nonetheless i will give ur tips a try and see if it helps my time at all! i'll also get bak to u as soon as possible with the results

one more thing outbacks tip on startin with the car in 2nd gear would work with a more powerful rwd car that can only find as much traction in 2nd gear than it can in 1st - this works on the principal that u will get just as much acceleration coming of the line, minus the time taken by the gear change and also the loss of time. i dont see how this could help with this car as it does not have much trouble finding traction in 2nd gear even with tsc turned to 0. also if you take into account that i have the 1st gear set quite wide, i dont think it wud make that big diference

once again thak you all for ur help and i'll make the changes as soon as i find the time!

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Joined: 09/15/2003
Last on: 05/09/2015
Setups: 91
Posts: 724
Ride height
Posted 03/24/2004 11:19 AM Post a reply Quote this post View DTW's info
So I tried your setup as you have it above and I just couldn't reproduce your time, the best I could get was 11.971 but that is most likely just me, I am not saying that your times are wrong. I tried the TCS at 2 and for this car 1 seems to be the best setting. I can also tell that you worked long and hard to get this setup, good job it is a nice one!

About the ride height, I warned you I was no good at explanations, what I should have said is that it is for road setups. Since I don't do the 0-400 setups I just carried the same philosophy over so it may not hold true since the track is short and the line is straight. Yes please let me know if it holds true here or not, now I am curious?

Outbacks idea of starting in 2nd gear is just more proof that he really does not know what he is talking about. As I just said above I have not tested 0-400 tracks but one thing I can say holds true for all cars and tracks is that at 387 bhp starting in 2nd gear will not help. As a rule of thumb I don't test a car in 2nd unless it is over 600 bhp. This is just a rule of thumb and does not hold true for all makes and setups etc.

Finally I want to point out that if you go and test some of demonracer/outbackH6tuner setups you will see that although he enters the numbers for the gearing (1st, 2nd, etc.) all he does is adjust the auto and final setting. By doing this I feel that he is paying tuners like you who actually work on their gearing a disservice.

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Joined: 11/21/2003
Last on: 07/21/2005
Setups: 2
Posts: 3
Posted 03/25/2004 2:53 AM Post a reply Quote this post View Trueno_SS's info
i took the time to test out a few things on the suspension setup...
mainly i was just experimenting with the ride height and spring rate and achieved a few better times
- concerning ride height, my best launches were achieved with no changes made to the front, and the rear set to the minimum
- the spring rate was best with the rear set to the max, and once again the front left as is
please dont ask me to explain why this is so, i really dont see how the rear spring rate is best set high when *theoretically* the car shud sit down on itself and create more traction with it set lower down - i dont see the logic in this, but it works

also i did try out outbacks suggestion of launching in second gear, i even went thru the long and arduous task of retuning the gear setting to match. in the end, no improvements were made by this. with a diferent gear setting, the car did gain approximately a 0.010 second lead in the first 50 meters or so, but i couldn't tune the gears to keep the lead for the rest of the sprint. i'm guessing this is because the final drive was set shorter - this will explain why the car got a better launch overall, but as a side effect 3rd gear onwards could not be set wide enough (ie the gears produced more acceleration, but for a smaller amount of time)

oh and a tip for DTW...
with this car i always run the quarter mile in manual and hang on to each of the gears for as long as possible, which is approximately half a hairs width past the 10,000 rpm mark
try this out and if u can get back to me with ur outcome
one more thing, this usualy takes a while to get best results (i dont think i could get 11.905 again if i tried, my next best time was 11.907 and i average 11.93-ish with this setup)

so thank you all once again! especially DadTheWheel for his massive contribution!

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Last on: 05/09/2015
Setups: 91
Posts: 724
Posted 03/25/2004 8:43 AM Post a reply Quote this post View DTW's info
I will give that a try, most likely tomorrow. I think my problem was shifting too early. Manuel is the way to go!

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Joined: 03/25/2004
Last on: 04/04/2004
Setups: 22
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ASM
Updated 03/26/2004 10:32 AM Post a reply Quote this post View 86dRifetR's info
ASM stands for Active Stability Management NOT Anti-Spin Mechanism...just thought i'd let you know...

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Posted 03/26/2004 11:11 AM Post a reply Quote this post View DTW's info
Thanks, good info.

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Posted 03/26/2004 9:47 PM Post a reply Quote this post View DTW's info
Well it took me sometime to find this thread again but here is the deal. My incorrect info for the name of the ASM came from “Shifter's Tuning Guide”, the link over to the right at the top of the page. He called it Anti-Spin and I am sorry to admit it but I was too lazy to turn the game on and look it up on the screen. So I quoted him and quoted wrong. Hay, what do you expect? It has been a long time since I have needed ASM, give me a break! Just joking, anyway I am in contact with him as he said his info comes from the screen also. Is it possible that the NTSC version of GT3 has a different name than the PAL version? I asked him and I will post the info on his reply when it comes in.

But yes 86dRifetR you are right, after firing up the game and taking a look it is Active Stability Management, not that I doubted you. I just wanted to ask Shifter why he called it Anti-Spin. Besides I wanted to take my SS out for a joy ride!

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Setups: 22
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Updated 03/26/2004 10:36 PM Post a reply Quote this post View 86dRifetR's info
Hey no prob. I heard that somewhere to before. I wasn't tryin to show you up, i just thought i'd let you know...its been a while since i needed ASM too...

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Setups: 91
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Posted 03/26/2004 11:50 PM Post a reply Quote this post View DTW's info
Oh no, my bad. I didn't get that at all from your comment, really I appreciated you pointing it out to me. I was just wondering why he had put it as Anti-Spin and thought maybe you or someone else might like to know also. I am just naturally curious.

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Last on: 05/09/2015
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Updated 03/27/2004 9:24 PM Post a reply Quote this post View DTW's info
So here is the final outcome of my conversation with Shifter. It appears that in the PAL version of GT3, in the options menu, ASM is listed as Anti-Spin. But for us with the NTSC version we see Active Stability. Now Shifter, the definitive voice in my humble opinion says that this is an error in the translation and that it should be Anti-Spin. As for me I will refer to it as Anti-Spin even though I am using the NTSC version. Maybe in GT4 they will get all of this worked out.

This is why he is right:
In fact Shifter is correct, Active Stability would flicker on when you hit the brake as it fights to balance the car. Anti-Spin would kick on as you accelerate and it fights to keep the wheels from spinning at different rates. If you turn it on and watch the screen the latter is what happens, it flickers on and off (meaning that it is active) during accelerator input.

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Joined: 09/06/2002
Last on: 02/14/2005
Setups: 25
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hi there
Updated 11/25/2004 12:07 AM Post a reply Quote this post View Impreza1's info
just been doing a fairly simple (10min) setup for this car and got it down to 11.887 by holding the gears to about 10,250 rpm. sorry to better that 11.907 you worked so hard for. one more thing you can actually run most 4wds without tcs 2 get their best times eg. 800+hp ruf ctr 2 and wrx 22b.
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